More on Sashiko.............

This post is a continuation from here .

There are actually 3 variations of sashiko still commonly used:

Sashiko

Hitomezashi : Hitomezashi requires only one stitch in any given direction with the end result being a design that is very dense and usually geometric in shape. If done well, it can actually resemble fine lace when finished.

Kogin : Kogin stitches are uneven in length and only follow the direction of the weft threads. The stitching instructions below apply to the basic sashiko variation.

KOGIN

Significance of Kogin embroidery may be regarded on three levels.
1. The decorative designs create a striking effect and display the embroiderers’ skill.
2. Symbolically the patterns from nature, display a reverence for the environment, which protected the wearer while working outside.
3. The position of embroidery at neck, and front of bodice & leggings was believed to protect the body.

Designs Used In Sashiko

 

As with many other art forms, most patterns are actually simplified representations of things found in nature and are often modeled after plants, birds, animals, natural phenomena such as clouds, tools, implements of war, or written characters from the language. A distinctive element in all sashiko patterns is the use of space--Japanese designs especially make full use of blank or "negative" space as an integral part of the overall pattern.


Examples of designs primarily drawn from nature include:


CLOUD ("kumo") - clouds were thought to be vehicles for Buddha and other celestial beings and was the symbol of rulers and authority;

HEMP/FLAX LEAF ("asa-no-ha") - a motif often used in Buddhist sculpture and scroll work to represent radiating light or the inner light of the soul;

BAMBOO ("chiku") - symbol of vitality and prosperity;

TORTOISE SHELL ("kikko")- symbol of good fortune and eternal youth.

Tracing the Design
Trace your design onto the RIGHT side of a fabric piece that is approximately 2-3" larger than the actual size needed. This will allow for any of the fabric being "eaten up" by the stitching, as well as extra room needed to adjust the pattern.
Patterns can be transferred on a light table (or by using some other type of back lighting) or with dressmaker's carbon,

 

french chalk or a quilter's marking pencil. 

AVOID USING A MARKING PEN since sashiko thread can be very sensitive to the chemicals and might pick up the coloration. 

Consider using different colours of marks to represent the stitching order if possible. YOUR DESIGN NEEDS TO BE AS ACCURATE AS POSSIBLE. Since sashiko stitching uses a very even stitch length, any errors in the design transfer will show up noticeably in the finished work.


Sewing Technique 
A wonderful tutorial on the sewing technique is given here
I shall post more on sewing technique (with pictures and more tips) when I work on it.